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Adventures on Vancouver Island’s Spirit Loop
Words Laura Plant
Photography Landon Copplestone (Courtesy Tourism Langford)
There’s a driving route on southern Vancouver Island that manages to pack in wild coastline, old-growth forest, world-class views, exceptional food and drink, and some of the most genuinely restorative accommodation you’ll find anywhere on the west coast. It’s called the Spirit Loop — and once you’ve done it, you’ll start planning your return before you’ve even unpacked.
The loop takes in the communities of Langford, Sooke, Port Renfrew, Dun can, Lake Cowichan, and the Malahat, following stretches of the Pacific Marine Circle Route through scenery that shifts from mountain to forest to ocean and back again. Here’s what to expect.
The Views
Let’s start with what hits you first: this part of Vancouver Island is strikingly beautiful, and the Spirit Loop is essentially a greatest-hits tour of its finest vantage points.
The Malahat SkyWalk is a must. Begin with a 600-metre TreeWalk through a fragrant arbutus forest before winding up a gentle spiral ramp to a lookout 32 metres above the forest floor, with panoramic views stretching across Finlayson Arm, the Saanich Peninsula, Mount Baker, and the distant coastal mountains. It’s a world-class attraction in the truest sense — genuinely breathtaking, and accessible to a wide range of ages and abilities. Ride the 20-metre Sizzler Slide back down if you’re feeling spirited. And if you’re planning a visit in the coming months, keep an eye out for the Spring 2026 arrival of The Overhang — a first-of-its-kind experience in Canada where you step out into an enclosed glass cube extending beyond the edge of the structure, with nothing but sky and forest below. Bold, thrilling, and absolutely unforgettable.
At the other end of the scale, the view from the window-encased bathtub at Moon Water Lodge on the Malahat might be the most quietly spectacular sight of the whole trip. The sight line runs straight up Finlayson Arm, and on the morning we were there, a pink sunrise stretched across the horizon and straight into the room. The distinctive hive-like structure of the SkyWalk was just visible through the trees. It’s the kind of moment that makes you want to stay an extra night.
In Sooke, the Whiffin Spit is a lovely, easy stroll with sweeping ocean views, and a short hillside path leads to the Sheringham Point Lighthouse and a rugged rocky beach with uninterrupted ocean vistas. Unhurried and beautiful.
The Hikes
The Spirit Loop rewards those who get out of the car. In Langford, the Sooke Hills Wilderness Trail winds through a forest draped in lichen, leading to a waterfall viewing platform and suspension bridge — a genuinely lovely half-day out. On the west coast, Sombrio Beach is a surfers’ paradise that more than earns a visit on its own, but follow the trail just off the beach and you’ll discover a spectacular waterfall and a water-carved canyon that stop you in your tracks.
The Food & Drink
This stretch of the island punches well above its weight when it comes to eating and drinking well.
House of Boateng in Langford is a local favourite for both brunch and dinner, and once you’ve eaten there it’s easy to understand why. The kitchen brings together locally sourced west coast ingredients and West African-inspired flavours in a way that feels both inventive and deeply comforting. Expect beautifully crafted brunch dishes with a distinctly creative edge — think west coast produce elevated by bold African-inspired spicing and technique. The setting is cosy and intimate for dinner, and the evening menu is just as imaginative. This is a place with a lot of heart, and it shows in every plate.
Bridgeman’s Bistro at Mill Bay Marina offers a completely different experience, but an equally memorable one. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame views of the Saanich Inlet and Mount Baker, and if you’re lucky you might spot local swans, a passing kayaker, or even a whale. The seafood here is superb — fresh, well-prepared, and served with the kind of unhurried ease that makes you linger over a second glass of wine.
For an equally spectacular setting, the beautiful lounge at the Westin Bear Mountain Resort & Spa is a refined spot to relax with a craft cocktail or a glass of something local, with an edge-of-the-mountain view through retractable glass walls and roof that makes it feel genuinely special at any time of day.
The Spirits Trail
The Spirit Loop takes its name seriously — there’s a genuinely impressive collection of craft distilleries and cideries along the route, and visiting them is one of the loop’s great pleasures.
Merridale Cidery & Distillery in Cobble Hill is an experience as much as a destination. Set on a beautiful working farm with apple orchards, grassy picnic areas, and a warm, welcoming tasting room, it’s the kind of place where you arrive intending to stay an hour and leave two and a half hours later, happily. Every cider is made with undiluted juice from fruit grown on the property, and the spirits — including gin, vodka, and their distinctive honey-based rumb — are crafted with the same care. Their cocktail-making class and orchard-to-glass cidery tour are both worth booking in advance.
Sheringham Distillery in Langford is best known for its award-winning gin — and for good reason — but the whisky and lemon liqueur are equally worth exploring. The tasting room is a welcoming stop to sample both the classics and whatever’s newest off the still.
Ryes and Shine Distillery in Langford offers gin, vodka, and a range of liqueurs, served in a vibrant tasting room that celebrates craft cocktails and live music in equal measure. It’s a lively and genuinely fun stop.
Ampersand Distilling Company is a family founded craft distillery located on a five acre farm in the Cowichan Valley. Specializing in vodka, gin, and nocino that you can experience in their tasting room.
Holocene Distilling Project in Cobble Hill opened its doors in 2023, offering the chance to try their gins, fig liqueur and more.
Stillhead Distillery in Duncan offers free tours and tastings, to see how their internationally acclaimed spirits are made.
Where to Stay
Accommodation on the Spirit Loop ranges from luxurious to wonderfully rustic, and most options welcome pets. Wild Renfrew in Port Renfrew sits at the meeting point of river, forest, and sea, offering everything from seaside cottages with full kitchens and ocean-facing decks, to peaceful forest-view rooms and the newer forest-view domes nestled among the trees. The Renfrew Pub on the same property is a relaxed, popular waterfront spot that feels like the heart of the local community — the menu is excellent and the atmosphere is everything a post-hike dinner should be.
Moon Water Lodge on the Malahat offers a range of options — pet-friendly rooms, two-storey suites, and fully equipped long-stay studios — all with that extraordinary Finlayson Arm outlook. It’s a genuinely special place to wake up.
The Westin Bear Mountain Golf Resort & Spa in Langford brings the luxury end of the spectrum, with the Amatista Spa offering a thoughtfully curated collection of treatments to relax, restore, and renew. If you are looking for condo-style accommodation, check out Langford’s Solo Suites.
Full listings of all the accommodations on the Spirit Loop, check out the following:
- myportrenfrew.ca/accomodations
- www.visitsooke.ca/where-to-stay
- www.explorelangford.ca/stay
- www.tourismcowichan.com/stay
The Spirit Loop is for those chasing adrenaline, seeking stillness, hunting for great food, or simply wanting to be reminded how extraordinary this corner of the world really is. Do it once, and you’ll start planning your return before you’ve even made it home.
